Traveling Ban Phe and Ko Samet Thailand

Ban Phe is the little port only on the map thanks to its role as a launch-pad for nearby Ko Samet. But the seafood markets nearby are worth a peek, and there are a few beaches around that are blissfully quiet during the week.

What to see:

Khao Chamao/ Khao Wong National Park which is less than 85 sq. km is famous for limestone mountains, high cliffs, caves, dense forest and waterfalls. The secret of the scenery is the tigers, wild elephants and bears.

As part of Laem Ya/ Mu Ko Samet National Park, the status of Ko Man Klang and Ko Man Nok, along with Ko Man Nai to the west hasn't kept away all development, only moderated. Ko Man Nai, the home to the Rayong Turtle Conservation Centre, which is a breeding place for endangered sea turtles and has a small visitors' center that describes their life cycle.

What to do:

You can volunteer to work at the center. Activities include monitoring the progress of the turtles, releasing young turtles into the ocean and explaining the project to tourists on day trips from Ko Samet. Accommodation is in a fishing village. Everyday you will go to work in a speedboat across to Ko Man Mai. It's pretty leisurely as you just work two or three hours a day, and explore and relax on good beaches for the rest of the time.

If you want to see more islands, Ko Saket will do. Suan Son (Pine Park) is a popular place for Thai Picnickers. For more beaches and diving places, you can visit Suan Wang Kaew and Ko Thalu.

Ko Samet is a T-shaped island just half a day's travel from a Southeast Asian super city, blessed with 14 white-sand beaches. The best beaches and most development are located on the island's eastern shore. Ko Samet is also a national park, and the entrance fee is collected at the main National Parks office. Go through the developed northeast coast quickly; we suggest you explore further south as there are some undeniably gorgeous bays where development is still low-key and which come with a relaxed traveler vibe.

Weekends and holidays in Ko Samet are undeniably fun; you are bound to leave with a whole swag of email addresses from your new Thai friends. But if you come on a relaxed weekday, the atmosphere will be less frantic, and you will be more likely to discover what attracted the backpackers a few short decades ago.

Ko Samet won a place in Thai literature when classical Thai poet Sunthorn Phu set part of his epic Phra Aphaimani on its shores. The story follows the travails of a price exiled to an undersea kingdom ruled by a lovesick female giant. A mermaid aids the price in his escape to Ko Samet, where he defeats the giant by playing a magic flute.

What to do:

Sailboards, boogie boards, inner tubes and snorkeling equipment can all be rented on the beaches at Hat Sai Kaew, Ao Hin Khok and Ao Phai. Dive operators run trips to nearby sites. The best diving place is at Hin Pholeung, half way between Ko Samet and Ko Chang.

Where to go:

The two most developed beaches are Hat Sai Kawe and Ao Wong Deuan. Most other beaches are still relatively quiet.

Hat Sai Kaew is known as "Diamond San". The sand here is white and relatively clean, but the seafront is lined with hotels, bars and restaurants. It's a favorite for Thais from Bangkok.

At the south end of Hat Sai Kaew, statue of the prince and the mermaid from Sunthorn Phu's epic gaze lovingly into each other's eyes. Ao Hin Khok begins here: a pretty stretch of sand, lined with tress and boulders. This is the traditional backpackers' hub of this island, while the ambience is slowly moving upmarket, there is still loads of energy from independent travelers to make a fun spot, especially after dark.

Around the next headland Ao Phai is another shallow bay with a wide beach, but it can get crowded during the day. After dark, there's fun aplenty.

Ao Phutsa, also known as Ao Tub Tim; this small and seclude beach is popular with return travelers and Bangkok expats.

The tiny beach, Ao Nuan, is the most secluded place to stay without having to go to the far south of the island.

Ao Co is a five-minute walk from Ao Nuan. It is undergoing a minor renaissance with the opening of a new resort.

Ao Wong Deuan is crescent-shaped bay which has good nighlife with a chilled after-dark vibe, but the daytime soundtrack may be jet skies and speedboats. Ferries run to and from Ban Phe, with increased services at the weekend.

Ao Thian is better know by its English name, Candle-light Beach. It has stretches of sand with rocky outcrops.

The southern reaches of the island are still practically untouched, with only a couple of hotels spread over as many kilometers of coastline.

The lovely Ao Wai is about 1km from Ao Thian, but it can be reached from Ban Phe by speedboat.

Further south, Ao Kiu Na Nok has the island's most upmarket accommodation.

Ao Prao is west facing with fabulous sunsets, and offers a smattering of chic hotels for the posh set.

Northwest of Na Dan, the beach at Ao Noi Na is average, but there is a refreshing solitude with a couple of good places to stay.

What to eat:

Most places to stay have restaurants that moonlight as bars at sunset. The food won't blow you away, but it's OK. Most choice is on Hat Sai Kaew, Ao Hin Khok, Ao Pha and Ao Wong Deuan, at the hotels that on the remote stretches, you won't go to bed hungry.

For serious cheap eats, check out the food stalls which set up in the late afternoon on the road between Na Dan and Hat Sai Kaew.