Hanoi

Hanoi Brief Introduction

The ideal of Hanoi evokes images of a stern, austere bastion of Vietnamese Communism, ravaged by war and closed to the world. Visitors to the capital, however, will be surprised to find themselves in one of Southeast Asia's most charming cities. With its Chinese architecture, majestic French colonial buildings, and tree-lined lanes, this ancient city of lakes extends a reserved but genuine welcome - the essence of the North Vietnamese. Less cosmopolitan than Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi is kinder and gentler than its southern rival. Fewer skyscrapers tower overhead and less traffic clogs the streets. The hard-core communist era appears to be on the wane; the almost overnight transformation of the infamous "Hanoi Hilton" prison into the Hanoi Tower Commercial Center has been an omen of things to come. Hammers and sickles still adorn the cityscape, but the doi moi "renovation" policies are slowly reshaping the face of the city.

Tourism has been on the rise in Hanoi in recent years. The Old Quarter has stepped up as the city's tourist enclave, with tourist hotels, travel cafes, and Western restaurants popping up left and right. The rest of Hanoi hasn't chipped in so far, but the construction of hotels on the shores of the romantic West Lake and the rise of souvenir shops in handicraft villages on the outskirts of Hanoi forecast that the city is eager to bring in more tourist dollars. For now, plenty of hidden gems remain, revealing a different Hanoi to the inquisitive; it remains to be seen if the city will ever really succumb to the tourist industry, a la Bangkok.

To most backpackers, Hanoi is a gateway in or out of Vietnam or a haven of luxury and infrastructure on their journey through less-accommodating northern Vietnam. Either way, it would be pity to pass through this beautiful ancient city without establishing at least a brief acquaintance with its unique ambience, turbulent history, savory cuisine, and cozy cafes. Hanoi may the wallflower of Southeast Asia, but if you make a little effort, she can truly shine.

History Museum     The History Museum, housed in a stately French-designed building, elaborately to presents Vietnams past from prehistory Communism, with display divided by period. The almost incessant foreign aggression that the Vietnamese have withstood over the centuries makes for an impressive read. Don't miss the Dong Son bronze drums and ceramics or the Khmer and Cham artifacts. (One block behind the Opera, across from the Revolutionary Museum on Pho Trang Tien, enter through the gates on the Pho Trang Tien. Open Tues-Su 8-11:45am and 1:30-4:30pm.)

Hoan Kiem Lake     The lake takes its name from 15th-century legend of a magic turtle who loaned a sacred sword to Le Loi, the nobleman who led the Vietnamese against the invading Ming army. Padding in the lake following the victory, the newly crowned emperor encountered the turtle, who demanded the sword back. The Tortoise Tower on a tiny island in the lakes center commemorates the event. Several mammoth turtles still live in the lake and occasionally surface, an event that locals believe is a sign of the impending death of one of the country's leaders. Strolls here are relaxing and enjoyable, but are punctuated by the entreaties of persistent children who sell postcards and t-shirts on the north side of the lake

Temple of Literature     The Temple of Literature was allegedly built in 1070 during the reign of Emperor Ly Tranh Tong to honor scholars and literary man. The Emperor dedicated this peaceful sanctuary to Khong Tu (Confucius). Six years later, the Royal College (Quoc Tu Giam), Vietnam's first university, was founded here in order to educate the children of court mandarins. The university remained in used until 1802, when the national university was moved to the new capital, Hue. The buildings remain in pristine condition. To enter, pass through the Four Pillars on Quoc Tu Giam. Please remember to dismount your house, in compliance with an ancient inscription on this gate. The following succession of open courts was established by a series of open gates, symbolic of the academic experience.

West Lake (Ho Tay)     West Lake is the largest lake in Hanoi, which about 13km in circumference. The lake area, where once- marshy shores used to be adorned only by pagodas, trees, and the occasional house, has developed since the American War into a nice spot for a stroll, meal, or drink. It is now also a popular for young couples to meet in evenings to see the sun set from a swan paddle boat or the back of the motorbike. Additionally, the West Lake's surrounding area houses Hanoi's most chic hotels and apartment buildings, as well as some large mansions owned by the nation's economic and political elite.

Museum of Fine Art     North of the Temple of Literature, this museum features Vietnamese art fromthe Stone Age until the 1980s. It features an abundance of early Vietnamese stone sculpture and woodwork, Socialist -Realist sculpture, and a series of "combat art" lacquer paintings. (Open Tue, Thurs-Fri Sun 8:30am-5pm, Wed and Sat 8:30am-9pm.)

One Pillar Pagoda     One of the few structures remaining from old Thang Long, the pagoda is dedicates to Quan Am, the goddess of mercy. Emperor Ly Thanh Tong built the pagoda after dreaming that the goddess, sitting on a lotus flower, gave him a boy. Soon after, a son was born to him. The pagoda was thus built to resemble a lotus plant.